![]() ![]() personally, having done the flash myself, the reward FAR exceeds the risk. So, if your cam chain tensioner fails, they cannot say "oh, well you flashed your ECU, so your warranty is voided and we're not going to replace it." Because the cam chain tensioner is not controlled by or connected to the ECU.ġ) the likelihood of them knowing you ever flashed your ECU is slim to none, unless you tell them or you put the stoltec moto sticker on it.Ģ) even if they find out, it doesn't void your entire warranty.ģ) the likelihood of the flashed ECU causing a part failure or other issues is also slim to none. You can review the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. It's the warranting body's responsibility to prove that any modifications you've done are contributing to any issues/failures you have. It would void the warranty on the part modified (obviously), and potentially any part related to/controlled by the ECU that has been proven to have failed due to the modified ECU. It was well worth it, and simplifies seat removal because you only need to loosen the screw a few turns instead of. Once you get the stripped bolt sorted out, consider making this simple modification. The hardest part for me was removing the small vent lines since they were stuck pretty well to the tank, but you can use a small flat head screwdriver to help slide them down. kamotejoe said: I'm pretty sure I stripped the hex bolt that attaches the seat to the frame. ![]() Once these are off, pull the tank straight up and set if somewhere safe! Be prepared to get a small amount of gas out of the fuel line. Now you have room to undo the fuel line, electrical plug, and vent lines. Then lift the tank up a few inches and rest it on the bracket. At the front of the tank the rubber edging needs to be unclipped from the plastic trim so you can lift the tank. ![]() Now just remove the seat and remove four bolts holding the tank, one on each side and two towards the rear of the tank, but don't remove the silver bracket. Once these are off, head to the front of the tank and do the same to remove the four push pins on the matte black plastic trim. For me the clutch side was much much tighter and required some force to pop loose. Then gently but firmly pull the cover off, there is a "prong" that fits inside a rubber grommet on the back side of the pieces, if you can squeeze your hand up underneath while pulling you can feel it and help pop it out. Remove the two pins per side, and then remove the small allen head bolt on the outside, there is one bolt per side. My two cents are to open up your air as much as possible get bolt on headers 2 into 1 (not slip on). Once you find them use something to push directly in the center of the pin and it will pop loose. Remove the right and left side "air scoops", to do this there are two push pins per side on the interior. I don't have pics but I just did this last weekend in about 15min. Don't get too intimidated about pulling the tank, it's really easy. ![]()
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